I wouldn't worry about doing any of the tests because if the damage was done, it's done, and will show up soon enough.

Especially if you weren't running it real hard. The diluted oil is a real issue and should be changed as soon as the problem is realized but there's a good chance that no real damage will have been done. In most cases the leakage past the float valve will not be greater than the ability of the rings to pass it on to the crankcase. A minor disagreement would be the probability of hydrolocking. If that proves OK, post back here and we can go from there.Ĭarb sync is definately not your problem and should never cost $200 regardless.Ĭlick to expand.Definitely a leaky float valve. First thing you should do is a compression check. Gas in the oil dramatically reduces the oil's liubricating properties and you may have done some serious wear damage to the engine in the 70 miles you rode it.

When the filled cylinder gets to the compression stroke the inertia of the crank can be enough to bend the connecting rod when the psiston stops suddenly. If you are unlucky, the other cylinder will fire, rapidly accelerating the crankshaft up to speed. When you try to start the bike in this condition, if you re lucky, it will not fire and try to compress the filled cylinder first stopping the starter dead. The gas will run into the carb and then into the engine where it fills one cylinder and leaks down around the rings. This occurs when the fuel petcock and one of you float bowl valves leak at the same time. Gas in the oil may mean the bike was hydro-locked at some point in the recent past.

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